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Dark Nights, Local Pints: An Essex Drinker’s Winter Hit List at The Griffin

The Griffin Danbury
Dark Nights, Local Pints: An Essex Drinker’s Winter Hit List at The Griffin

Photo: roger geach , CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Winter drinking is not complicated. You want something with a bit of weight, a bit of warmth and a bit of local character. At The Griffin, that means keeping an eye on the changing line-up behind the bar. Essex has a strong independent brewing scene, and the colder months are when its maltier side comes into its own. This is not a definitive tap list — beers rotate, casks settle and the kitchen has its own ideas — but it is a regular’s hit list for the season.

How This List Works

I have ranked these by mood as much as by style. Some nights call for a best bitter that behaves itself. Some call for a porter that tastes like a slice of dark cake. Some call for cider with enough tannin to make you sit up. The common thread is locality: beers and ciders from Essex makers, served in a village pub where the fire is not just for show.

1. The Best Bitter That Does Everything

Start with the classic. A well-kept best bitter is the backbone of any proper pub, and Essex has plenty of them. Look for a copper-coloured pint with a biscuit malt base, a gentle marmalade hop note and a finish that leaves you ready for the next mouthful rather than reaching for a glass of water. It is not flashy. It is not supposed to be.

At The Griffin, this is the pint for a midweek catch-up or a first drink before food. Pair it with the steak and ale pie if it is on, or the fish and chips if you want the batter to do the talking. The bitterness cuts through richness without bulldozing it. That is the whole trick.

2. The Mild That Deserves More Respect

Mild has had a rough press for decades, which is a shame. A good dark mild is one of the most friendly beers in the English canon: low in alcohol, soft in texture, full of chocolate and dried fruit. It is a winter pint that does not shout. It sits by the fire and gets on with it.

If you see a local mild on the bar, try it. Essex brewers have a way with malt that suits the style. Pair it with a ploughman’s, a cheese board or anything with a bit of pickle. The sweet malt and the sharp cheese are old friends.

3. The Porter for the Properly Cold Nights

When the wind is coming across the village and the windows have that faint rattles, porter is the answer. Expect cocoa, a little plum, maybe a whisper of coffee. It should be smooth rather than syrupy, with enough hop to stop it turning into dessert. A local porter from an Essex independent is a fine thing.

Food-wise, this is the pint for a burger, a slow-cooked stew or a Sunday roast with all the trimmings. The malt loves beef and gravy. If the kitchen has a dark chocolate pudding on, do not overthink it. Order both.

4. The Stout With a Bit of Bite

Stout is porter’s louder cousin, and in winter that can be exactly right. Look for roasted barley, dark chocolate, a dry finish. It should wake you up rather than put you to sleep. Some local stouts have a lovely edge of espresso; others lean more towards liquorice. Either way, a half is often enough before dinner, and a pint is a statement.

Pair it with oysters if you are feeling fancy, or with a robust cheese and chutney. At The Griffin, it also works surprisingly well alongside a plate of chips. That is not a sophisticated pairing. It is a correct one.

5. The Cider That Tastes of Orchards

Cider is not just a summer drink. A dry, tannic Essex cider is a brilliant winter pint, especially with food. Think apple skin, a little funk, a dry finish. It should taste like fruit that grew somewhere rather than a alcopop that fell off a lorry. Local cider makers are doing good work, and the bar team will know what is drinking well.

Try it with roast pork, a cheese board or the Sunday roast. The acidity does wonders for rich meat and crackling. If you are new to dry cider, ask for a taster. Nobody at a proper pub will mind.

6. The Golden Ale That Keeps Things Bright

Not every winter pint has to be dark. A well-made golden ale can be a palate cleanser between heavier choices, and it is a good option if you are eating something delicate. Look for citrus, a clean malt backbone and a crisp finish. It is the pint for the friend who says they do not like dark beer but wants something local.

Pair it with fish, chicken or a lighter lunch. It is also the pint for the first hour of the evening, before the porter takes over.

A Few Essex Names to Look For

Essex’s independent brewers are the reason this list is worth writing. Crouch Vale, Mighty Oak, Brentwood Brewing, Colchester Brewery and Bishop Nick are all part of the local beer conversation, and their beers turn up in village pubs where the landlord cares about cask. The exact lineup at The Griffin will change, so treat this as a guide to what to ask for rather than a fixed menu.

The Griffin Kitchen Pairings

The kitchen’s strengths are pub classics done properly: pies, fish and chips, roasts and puddings. That makes winter drinking easy. Best bitter with pie. Porter with roast beef. Dry cider with pork. Stout with chocolate pudding. If you are in doubt, ask behind the bar. A good pub team will point you towards the pint that is drinking best today rather than the one that looks best on a chalkboard.

The Regular’s Verdict

Winter at The Griffin is not about chasing novelty. It is about settling in. Find a local ale you trust, order something warm from the kitchen and let the dark nights do their worst. The Essex independent scene gives us plenty to work with. The pub gives us the room to enjoy it. That is a good combination — and a very good reason to keep an eye on the handpumps this season.

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